Installing a magneto in 52 K model

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Re: Installing a magneto in 52 K model

Postby jOe » Fri Apr 19, 2019 12:16 am

I put a DC Linkert on a KH I had about 12 years ago. I recall it worked out real well. But it was for an XL- the choke assembly had to be installed upside down and backwards. It worked fine, but it was reversed . J slotted air cleaner and a fabricated manifold adapter. Looked great and worked fine.
If you can find one in good condition from a Servi-Car, that might be a good way to go.

Morris is the gold standard in magneto ignition. Whatever they charge you, you’ll be bucks ahead in the end.
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Re: Installing a magneto in 52 K model

Postby Noot » Fri Apr 19, 2019 12:01 pm

I have multiple K, KH model motorcycles. You can bolt the magneto solid in the Advanced position - and it will start fine.
I even have my magneto timing advanced a bit further than stock(45+ degrees) for performance - and they still start fine. A "kickback" on a K model isn't as devastating to you as a kickback from a Sportster anyway. When installing your magneto, keep experimenting with your small lobe(front cylinder) so you install your magneto without the body hanging way out (in the way of your leg). You should be able to install it with the mag head inward toward the rear cylinder. Sometimes you must lengthen the slots in the advance plate to get the exact position you need. I slide a small o-ring up the magneto shaft - to kinda pinch in there with the seal to help prevent leaks. Have the O-ring just above the surface of the magneto flat mount plate. I use short 1/4" USS coarse bolts(they start easier) and nylon insert locknuts on the bottom side. Make sure you put the LEFT SIDE(rear ward) bolt in there when installing your magneto. PS. This is great advice ! :) -Respectfully, Noot

The best way I set my timing on a K Model with magneto: Bump your motor over watching Front Intake Tappet go up....then it's coming down...Front piston should be coming up...look for timing mark just entering back-side of timing hole - Stop. In this position your points should be breaking on the front (Small) lobe of your magneto. In the correct position, your magneto should be all the way in (up against your rear cylinder fins) and as you slowly rotate it counter-clockwise outward - your points will just break - then Tighten it down - Perfect. If you want...you can test it by rolling your engine over a couple times - watch the intake go up, now it's coming down - front piston coming up - have your (I use foil from Pop Tart wrappers or something .001 or less thickness) between your points - and when the foil just pulls out - the points broke - look in the timing hole - and your mark should be in the hole again... :) Damn I'm good !
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Re: Installing a magneto in 52 K model

Postby EKHKHK56 » Fri Apr 19, 2019 4:19 pm

Nice Noot! Except kickbacks on a KHK can ruin your day! Over the bars and threw the woods...haha. Hey how about a circuit tester to see when those points open. If you're not in the woods... :D Erik
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Re: Installing a magneto in 52 K model

Postby Ferrous_Head » Fri Apr 19, 2019 6:28 pm

If you do't mind I'll add just two points to these two posts.
Make sure the engine is being turned in normal (ie running) direction when your looking for the timing mark. Sometimes it just slides past and people tend to just back it up. There is some hysteresis (slop) in the system.
secondly, I can't emphasize how good the Buzz Box Morris sells is. If I lost mine this morning I would buy another one before lunch.
"I know only too well the evil that I propose, but my inclinations get the better of me."
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Re: Installing a magneto in 52 K model

Postby EKHKHK56 » Fri Apr 19, 2019 7:09 pm

Of course we were all raised on driver's license for point gap and PopTart foil release for timing but yeah buzz box or light indicating opening is nice. The thing with the long stroke KH and KHK kicking back isn't about Timer timing actually. It's about after priming engine, than wind up to BTDC before turning Ignition on and starting.
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Re: Installing a magneto in 52 K model

Postby Ferrous_Head » Fri Apr 19, 2019 9:46 pm

The buzz box means you can work "hands free" while playing with the timing. It would be great too if setting the timing were just a one shot thing. Unfortunately we often do it multiple times. Especially when setting up a whole new ignition system.
You can do it in the dark. Not only does it have a LED light but it has a buzzer. Us blind people appreciate that.
Some tools are an absolute must have. Like your hammer. But others can make life a lot easier.
I can get by without my push rod tube pliers and my buzz box. But I just don't want to anymore. Once you've ysed them you can't really go back.
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Re: Installing a magneto in 52 K model

Postby Lisa » Fri Apr 19, 2019 10:45 pm

sportyparts wrote:There are 3 different magneto bases, any one will work. Call me if you need one I have all 3. Kirk 714 879-0500
TOP SHELF guy to do business with. That is my opinion and a Fact.
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Re: Installing a magneto in 52 K model

Postby K Daddy » Thu Apr 25, 2019 12:36 pm

If you want to retard the spark for starting, Should I try to get say 10 degrees past top dead center?
And then for running timing, how do I get say 5 degrees before TDC?
Are these numbers even close? I don't know what they should be.
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Re: Installing a magneto in 52 K model

Postby wz507 » Thu Apr 25, 2019 12:53 pm

I would think 10 deg BTDC would be a fine retarded starting position and 25-30 BTDC should be a good running position.

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Re: Installing a magneto in 52 K model

Postby Ferrous_Head » Thu Apr 25, 2019 3:59 pm

Like I said earlier I'm a Sportster guy so I don't know what the actual timing is for a Flattie. But, there will be a timing mark on the flywheels that indicates the correct timing position. I would use that. There is a small round window in the left case just below and between the two cylinders. Remove the bolt/plug and you will be able to see the outer rim of the flywheels. There is a vertical line that indicates the correct position for setting the timing.
You need to make sure the front cylinder is coming up on compression when you do set the timing.
Try to get the vertical mark exactly in the middle of the window,
If the set up you have allows for advance/retard set the timing with this set to full advance. The retard figure will be whatever the set up allows.
Someone else here may know the timing or know the distance BTDC which allows you to use a dial gauge. Sporters from memory are 11/16'ths but I have no idea about K's.
XLCH 900 Sportsters fire 45 BTDC. That;s convenient for us as it means the rear cylinder is at TDC at the firing point.
I have an adapter to allow me to install a degree wheel but t means pulling the primary cover to use it.
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